Meet Samuel Roy
From the moment he learned to ride a bicycle, Sam has let two wheels roll him to faraway places, crossing nearly every continent and exploring some of the world’s most stunning landscapes. Today, he works as a cycle-tourism guide and our host for the Detour series.
Samuel Roy dives into the wild winter of the Charlevoix region, a unique and stunning UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Come winter, this Quebec gem transforms into a rugged snow-laden terrain for outdoor lovers—and a secret haven for foodies in the know.
This five-day itinerary takes you deep into Charlevoix’s mountainous heart via the Route des Montagnes (Mountain Road)—a winding, 121-kilometre backcountry road nestled between Routes 381 and 170. It cuts through the region’s hinterland, linking Saint-Urbain, Saint-Hilarion, Notre-Dame-des-Monts, Saint-Aimé-des-Lacs, and Clermont with privileged access to towering mountains, forested valleys, and specialized farmsteads.
Whether you’re after Nordic skiing, fine charcuterie, or simply a better way to spend your weekend, this road delivers front-row access to sublime scenes. From slow mornings with farm eggs to afternoons spent skiing or snowshoeing the trail networks that lead to sublime views off the region’s mountain peaks—this is the Charlevoix you’ll come to remember forever.
DAY 1
Saint-Urbain: Agrotourism Among the Peaks
This is for slow-food lovers and curious travellers ready to swap the usual tasting rooms for something a little bit more rustic.
Les Viandes Bio de Charlevoix
125, rue Saint-Édouard,
Saint-Urbain, G0A 4K0
Start your trip with a visit to this organic meat producer, where ethical farming meets gourmet flavours. Browse the shop for cold-smoked sausages and pâtés, and take the self-guided tour to learn how sustainability scales in a northern climate.
Centre de l’Émeu de Charlevoix (Économusée de l’Huilière)
710, rue Saint-Édouard,
Saint-Urbain, G0A 4K0
Yes, emus. Over 400 of them. Meet these rare, prehistoric-looking birds, then explore the on-site shop featuring everything from emu oil face creams to creams for joint pain. It’s educational, unexpected, and… oddly soothing.
La Ferme Basque de Charlevoix
816, rue Saint-Édouard,
Saint-Urbain, G0A 4K0
This rustic farm offers a charming picnic spot and a boutique offering a variety of rich flavours. Participate in a tour of this family-run locale that puts animal welfare and the environment at the forefront of its business.
Pro Tip: Many of these farms are open year-round, but hours vary by season. Call ahead and bring a cooler—you’ll want to stock up.
DAY 2
Saint-Urbain: Wild Trails, Frozen Vistas
Set aside the charcuterie for a day and lace up your boots—or strap on some snowshoes.
Grands-Jardins National Park
Route 381, km 21,
Saint-Urbain, G0A 4K0
At the centre of the Charlevoix Biosphere Reserve, this park is a rugged jewel of the Canadian Shield. In winter, it’s a snow-draped playground for cross-country skiers, snowshoers, and hikers of all levels. Don’t miss the Secteur de la Galette—a lesser-known area ideal for quiet snowshoe treks, nordic cross-country loops, and scenic backcountry outings in the mountains.
What makes this park shine is its variety. Wide valleys, taiga forests, and bald granite domes mean you can choose your pace. Stay low and meander, or take on a summit hike with epic views of the impact crater.
Gear Tip: Bring layers. Humidity can turn a warm day cold fast. A thermos of hot cider goes a long way on exposed trails.
DAY 3
Saint-Hilarion: From Field to Fork
Here, every stop is a chance to taste something deeply local.
La Ferme Ambrosia
335, rang 1,
Saint-Hilarion, G0A 3V0
This small-scale farm raises Muscovy ducks the slow way: free range, no force-feeding, and a whole lot of flavour. The result? A curated selection of duck products that are rich, ethical, and rooted in the region.
Le Véritable Agneau
30, route Sainte-Croix,
Saint-Hilarion, G0A 3V0
The last certified Charlevoix lamb producer. Since 2000, they’ve bred their flocks with care and precision, producing meats worthy of their Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status. Call ahead for pre-orders.
Local Insight: Don’t feel like a restaurant tonight? No problem. Build your own feast with local ingredients, and enjoy it by the fire back at your lodging.
WHERE TO STAY
While accommodations are scattered along the route, one spot blends comfort, cuisine, and location better than most:
Le Relais des Hautes-Gorges
330 Rue Principale,
Saint-Aimé-des-Lacs, QC G0T 1S0
Located near the entrance to Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie National Park, this inn sits on a large estate overlooking snow-draped pines and mountain peaks. The property offers over twenty newly renovated rooms, a pool, a spa, and an outdoor fire pit—all open year-round. On-site dining reflects the region’s terroir with fresh, local ingredients.
DAY 4
Saint-Aimé-des-Lacs: Ice Valleys, Fat Bikes & Frozen Silence
Now it’s time to go big. This is the kind of day that earns you your sleep.
Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie National Park
500, rue Principale,
Saint-Aimé-des-Lacs, G0T 1S0
Think steep rock faces coated in hoarfrost, frozen rivers winding through glacial valleys, and wide expanses filled with snowshoe tracks and birdsong. If winter has a cathedral, it’s here.
Take your pick: Fat biking through the Vallée des Glaces, ice skating in open air, classic and skate skiing, snowshoeing scenic loops, ice climbing for the bold, or tubing with mountain views. For full immersion, stay overnight. Both this park and Grands-Jardins offer ready-to-camp options—perfect for warming up after a full day out, whether you’re with the family or flying solo.
Trail Tip: Start early and spend the day. This park rewards slowness—every view, every turn is worth lingering over. Have your camera and contemplation ready.
DAY 5
Clermont: A Toast to the Region
Before heading home, detour to Clermont for one last taste of Charlevoix’s creativity.
Menaud – Distillery & Brewery
1, rue de la Rivière,
Clermont, G4A 1B5
Named after Félix-Antoine Savard’s iconic novel, Menaud pays homage to the legendary log driver of its namesake, distilling the wild spirit of Charlevoix—quite literally. Using grains, spring water, and botanicals from the region, they produce exceptional small-batch gins, vodkas, and beers. Sample on-site, then bring a bottle (or two) home.
Share on
